[Visit Busan] Dongnae — Spending a Day with Busan's Older Self

September's already here. The midday heat hasn't quite let go yet, but there's a little more coolness in the morning and evening air lately, which usually means fall is on its way. With that cooler weather in mind, I wanted to get ahead of the season and share a spot that's especially good once autumn settles in. I mentioned once before, when introducing Busan, that the city is now home to Korea's 24th national park, Geumjeongsan National Park. Today we're heading to the neighborhood right at its foot — Dongnae, one of the oldest and most historic corners of Busan. We'll cover Dongnaeeupseong Fortress, Geumgang Park, and Dongnae Hot Springs all as one day trip.

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📍 What is Dongnae?

These days, "Busan" tends to bring to mind beaches like Haeundae or Gwangalli. But up through the Joseon dynasty, it was actually Dongnae — not "Busan" — that gave its name to this whole region. Dongnae served as the first line of defense against Japanese incursions and a key post for diplomacy with Japan, important enough to be governed by an official of the third senior rank. It was also the site of one of the fiercest battles of the Imjin War, where the magistrate Song Sang-hyeon led troops and civilians in defense of the town. Once the port-centered area we now call "Busan" became the city's new hub during the Japanese colonial period, Dongnae settled into life as a quiet residential district — but that's also why it still holds onto more of old Busan than almost anywhere else.

Rising behind Dongnae like a folding screen is Geumjeongsan. In November 2025, the mountain was officially designated Korea's 24th national park, recognized both as part of a key ecological corridor linking Gangwon-do and Gyeongsang-do and as a mountain sitting right in the middle of a dense urban area — and as of March 3, 2026, it legally holds that national park status. Unlike Mudeungsan or Palgongsan, which were upgraded from existing provincial parks, Geumjeongsan had never been under protected status before becoming a national park outright, which is part of what makes the designation so significant. Every place we're covering today — the fortress, the cable car, the hot springs — is tied closely to this mountain.

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🏯 Dongnaeeupseong Fortress

Dongnaeeupseong was the walled fortress surrounding the administrative seat of the Dongnae government during the Joseon dynasty. Most of the flatland sections of the wall were torn down during the Japanese colonial period, but the sections running along the hills, along with the three command posts — Dongjangdae, Seojangdae, and Bukjangdae — have been restored and are still walkable as a hiking course today. Of the three, Bukjangdae is the most popular; from there, you get a sweeping view over downtown Dongnae, and on a clear day, all the way out to Gwangan Bridge. It's also worth stopping by Bukmun, the only gate that survives in its original form, and Insaengmun ("the gate that saved lives"), named for the people who escaped through it and survived during the Imjin War.

Dongnaeeupseong Fortress, Busan | Photo: Busan Tourism Organization (visitbusan.net)

Come fall, the trail along the fortress wall turns a warm shade of red and gold, and the gingko trees against the old stonework make for one of the best photo spots around. Every October, Dongnae also hosts the Dongnaeeupseong History Festival, now more than 20 years running, with highlights like "The Lonely Fortress," a historical musical retelling the defense of Dongnae during the 1592 Imjin War, and the Dongnaebusa Procession, a parade featuring over a thousand participants. It's about a 20-minute walk from Myeongnyun Station.

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🚡 Geumgang Park

Past the fortress and a little further up toward the mountain is Geumgang Park. It's an easy, gently sloped city park with well-kept walking trails, but its real claim to fame is the cable car — first opened in 1966 and still running today. A roughly six-minute ride up takes you near the South Gate of Geumjeongsanseong Fortress, right at the trailhead into Geumjeongsan itself. The view from the cabin, with the mountain's fall colors and downtown Dongnae spread out below, is supposed to be something else.

Geumgang Park, Busan | Photo: Busan Tourism Organization (visitbusan.net)

Namu and Halbae actually rode this very cable car up Geumjeongsan in one of our Imaginary Adventure episodes. Drawing that scene from the cable car window made it clear just how beloved this route has been over the years. The park also has a few cultural spots worth a look even without riding the cable car — the Busan Folk Art Museum and the Busan Marine Natural History Museum among them. Now that Geumjeongsan is officially a national park, this stretch will likely see even more visitors going forward, since it doubles as one of the mountain's main gateways.

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♨️ Dongnae Hot Springs

By the time you've walked the fortress trail and ridden the cable car, your legs are bound to be feeling it. Rounding out the day at Dongnae Hot Springs is the way to go. It's one of the oldest hot springs in Korea — the Samguk Yusa records a Silla-era minister bathing here as far back as 683. Legend has it the springs were discovered when a villager noticed a white heron bathing in a shallow pool and, intrigued, dug it out further. The springs still hold a stone monument from 1691 and Yonggak, a shrine to the dragon spirit, and every year on the ninth day of the ninth lunar month, the Dongnae Hot Springs Dragon King Rite is held — a tradition that's now been carried on for over 322 years.

The water itself is a clear, odorless alkaline saline spring, said to have the highest magnesium content of any hot spring in Korea. Water temperatures run 45 to 61°C, and it's traditionally been considered good for neuralgia, muscle aches, and poor circulation, drawing visitors for generations. Heosimcheong, which opened in 1991, spans roughly 4,300 square meters with about 40 different baths, and is considered the largest hot spring facility in East Asia. Soaking your legs here after a day of walking is probably the most satisfying way to wrap up a trip to Dongnae.

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🗺️ A Suggested Day Plan

I'd suggest going Dongnaeeupseong Fortress → Geumgang Park → Dongnae Hot Springs. Spend the morning walking the fortress wall in the cool air and taking in the view from Bukjangdae, then head over to Geumgang Park midday for the cable car ride up the fall-colored slopes of Geumjeongsan. As evening comes on, wind down in the hot springs district with a meal and a long soak to rest your legs — a day with a good mix of walking, scenery, and rest. All three spots are close enough on the subway that you can get around entirely by public transit.

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💬 Let's Chat!

Have you already been to any of these three — the fortress, the cable car, or the hot springs? If there's a hidden gem in the Dongnae area I should cover next, let me know in the comments! If you enjoyed today's post, don't forget to like and follow. 🍂

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📎 Reference Links

• Visit Busan – Dongnaeeupseong Fortress
• Visit Busan – Dongnaeeupseong History Festival
• Busan Infrastructure Corporation (BISCO) – Geumgang Park
• Korea National Park Service – Geumjeongsan National Park